Hello lovers tinkering! Today, "Izobretayka" offers to master a new material for crafts - cardboard. After all, if any business is approached creatively, then our possibilities will be unlimited. So cardboard is such a material from which, as it turns out, you can make anything (read how to make a chair out of cardboard).
What do we know about it about cardboard? For us, this is the usual packaging material in which we either store unnecessary things, or immediately throw it in the trash. And here in vain! With it, you can create the most extraordinary crafts, and even interior items. Many consider corrugated cardboard is fragile material. However, in support of its high strength, an experiment was conducted in which four ordinary cardboard boxes put a car. And they withstood. Therefore, knowing the features of this material, people are already beginning to use it non-standard.
We will make of it Knight armour.
We will need sheets of corrugated cardboard, knife, glue, scotch tape, wide summer and must imagination.
Redraw on prepared sheets cardboard pattern patterns armor (you can use any other found on the Internet or in books). Use a sharp knife to cut each piece into 2 pieces (use adults for this procedure).
Coat the surface of the parts with a thin layer of glue. Press them against each other under pressure. It’s better to start gluing parts from the middle. Back and front armor leave clean. Attach fasteners to the back plate before gluing. For fasteners use a wide tape. After gluing, the product must be well dried.
In the same way, make a shield, sword, arm ruffles, helmet.
If you wish, you can make more complex sets of knightly armor. It all depends on your desire.
For dessert, look at what unusual cardboard crafts you can do yourself if you wish.
Paper boots - Boots pdo
With the armor finished, move on to weapons!
This weapon is one of the deadliest in the game and official additions. Such weapons weigh a lot and are much more expensive than other weapons.
The first will be the sword. It takes 11 pages. The complexity of the assembly is average.
Mace PDO - Mace papercraft
Bow and quiver to him. Personally, I consider the bow to be the most difficult weapon from this list, but it looks just great. It takes 20 pages. The quiver is glued on one or two.
-Beginning of work-
Be patient! Making a bib can take a lot of (very much) of your time and nerves.
Well .. let's get started.
I thought for a long time where to start work. The cardboard is too soft; it is impossible to sustain the convex shape.
As a result, the following thought came: "And if you make it first from the wire? A kind of skeleton."
I must say right away that I did everything without a ruler, I can’t give any sizes. Everything by eye and with the subsequent fitting on yourself. In the end, I got something like this. I connected everything with electrical tape.
When the "bib" has become more or less symmetrical, you can begin to trim. As a covering I used a good old green cardboard. Those who have followed my previous posts know that I have at least heaped them.
Sheathed as follows: cut a long strip of cardboard and bend on both sides, then staple. We grab each next lane to the previous one.
Bochkin bibs cut out by eye. The main thing is that the hands move freely and nothing interferes.
Important! Check that your hands move freely even in thick clothes.
The frame seems to be ready, the most difficult behind (yeah, almost). Then you can proceed to pasting the bib with numerous layers of paper. We cut A4 into 7x7 cm squares. (You can and more) and glue.
After 5-7 layers of paper, the bib became like this:
Then I stuck on the “edging-skirt” of the bib. Make it very simple. We glue short strips of cardboard at the base of the bib, and then bend them at 45 ° and then glue them with paper. You may notice a black thread that has encircled the bib. She squeezes it so that after drying it would remain in this form.
Next, we begin to create a framework for a plate skirt. (I will devote a separate article to it because it is difficult to manufacture and deserves a post)
Cut long strips and glue to the bib.
After that, with the help of a stapler, we fasten the horizontal stripes of the skirt.
Very important! Be sure to narrow the skirt to the bottom. Try to get the most spherical shape.
Like the bib, we glue the skirt with 5-7 layers of paper. After that, it will be something like this:
Responsible step! Carefully cut off the skirt and align the base of the bib.
Harvesting a plate skirt can be postponed. We don’t need it yet.
Surely you noticed red stripes on our bib. We draw in exactly the same way - this is the future stiffener (the strip in the center is just a guide).
So our red stripes came in handy. From papier-mâché we make a triangular stiffener from the clavicle region to the end of the bib of the bib. You will need a lot of papier-mâché mass.
When everything dries properly, you need to glue paper and a stiffener so that it has a finished look.
Now we have to drill the holes for the belts, thanks to which our bib will be held on the chest.
We drill 4 holes in the area of the shoulders and on the sides of the arms under the arms, as well as 8 holes on the bib skirt, 2 holes at the same distance from each other.
We use a special mesh like this. You can buy at any hardware store.
Glue all bib with stiffener. I did not process it and then it came back to me. Do not repeat my mistakes.
Next, use putty smoothness. Bought where the grid - in any building.
We put a smooth surface on the bib in two layers. The first to putty on all the irregularities of the bib. When it dries, we erase all the errors with sandpaper. The second layer should be much thinner. With it we close up the most noticeable hollows. After complete drying, we grind everything. It should be something like this:
Important! Do not forget to update the holes in the bib while the surface is still damp!
Well, almost the end.
Black paint (any suitable) paint the bib. Hmm ... it doesn't look very good, but for now.
We use Superchrome paint from any hardware store.
Paint the bib with 2-3 layers at intervals of 5 minutes. After the final painting, we wait half an hour for confidence.
-Belts and carabiners-
In any sewing store you can buy such excellent belts (5 cm wide) and the corresponding carbines for them. Buy carabiners with cloves for adjustment.
We make holes in the belts and sew them to the carabiners and bib.
I placed the carabiners at the bottom because it’s more convenient to put on the bib yourself, besides the massive carabiners on the shoulders will cling to the shoulders (those that we created in the previous article)
--- They asked me: "Will stickers be suitable for gluing products?" No guys, the stickers won't work. They are thinner, which means they need more. In addition, you will have to cut the sticky edge on each sticker (and there may be hundreds of them.) Otherwise, the PVA glue will mix with the glue of the stickers and turn into porridge. I do not advise doing this.
--- Remember, I mentioned that laziness comes back to me (this is when I did not begin to cover the stiffener with a grid)? So the surface cracked in two places on the stiffener. This did not affect the state of the bib, but I was disappointed. I had to restore.
--- If you cut a textile belt, then immediately cauterize the place of cutting, otherwise it will begin to roll. This also applies to the holes in the belt. It’s better not to pierce them, but to burn them with a heated awl.
That's all! Good luck to you crafts!
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How to make a knight's helmet
1. First, take cardboard (see that it is strong enough), cut long strips of cardboard. Measure the length of the strips on your head, then glue the rims from them, the width of the strips should be one and a half to two centimeters. Collect the resulting rings cross-wise together in a spherical frame, slightly larger than the head of an adult. Also, if you need to add rigidity inside the ball, then do it.
2. There are a couple of ways to make paper raw materials.
- The first way taught at school at labor lessons. We cut or tear the paper into small pieces, no more than two centimeters in size, fill them with water, to which we add a little, glue of pva or wallpaper glue, then we just take out the impregnated paper and glue the mold surface in several layers.
- Second way will be a little easier. We tear old newspapers into small pieces (you can also use cardboard or any paper waste paper that is no longer useful). Soak them in water, add glue or wallpaper glue to unnecessary dishes. The contents of the dishes should be kneaded by hands (wear rubber gloves), mix thoroughly until a homogeneous mass is obtained. It should turn out quite thick, you can let it brew for a couple of hours.
3. The helmet frame can be wrapped in cellophane. Wrap the surface of the frame with wet paper. It is clear that this is a rather dirty activity, when a large surface of the ball was covered with raw paper, the frame can begin to sag under its weight. (That is why you must first put inside the stiffness, for example, at least from the same cardboard). After we put the helmet on drying closer to the battery.
4. The next morning, the helmet should dry. We cut off all unnecessary with scissors and here are examples of what should turn out.
5. To make the bottom of the helmet, you will need an old enameled bowl of a suitable size, the bottom of which is also wrapped with cellophane, after which cover the walls of the bowl directly on cellophane with wet paper and set to dry. When the paper dries, simply gently remove the finished bottom of the future helmet from the mold.
6. We connect the upper part of the helmet with the lower one using masking tape, we also coat the seam with wet paper inside and out. Then carefully cover all the cracks, and then dry again at the battery.
7. To make a visor, you can cut several stencils out of cardboard - we glue our stencils into a single frame so that we get a sturdy cardboard construction. Then we cover it with polyethylene and also begin to cling to it with our mass consisting of wet paper and wallpaper glue. When all the work is done, set the future to dry. After a day, the papier-mâché should already be dry, after which our visor can be removed from the frame, since we laid polyethylene between the frame and the paper pulp, there will be no problem pulling out the helmet parts. But all the same, all difficulties cannot be avoided. If the product does not fall apart, be extremely careful when pulling it out.
We connect the helmet itself and visor. Having connected the two parts together, we outline the side holes on our helmet, which we will then drill, and for now it will be enough to screw the visor to the helmet with ordinary screws.
Example helmet and visor
8. Be sure to check if the visor opens at the helmet. In theory, everything should work fine, in addition, the helmet can be tried on your own head, the rest is a matter of technology.
9. The next day, you can add paper in some places, strengthen and even out the most ordinary-looking areas and irregularities.
10. To hide large irregularities, you can go to a hardware store and buy a can of putty. Arriving home, take a small spatula and proceed with puttying.
11. Putty should not be applied in a thick layer, carefully coating the bumps on the surface of the helmet.
12. In some places you can deliberately leave small dents.
13. After, when the putty has dried, we take a fine sandpaper and we clean the entire surface to a more or less smooth state. Everything is ready.
14. Now you can paint everything. You can paint it in metallic color or just black. You can also paint white with gold patterns and then make a silk wrap.
How to make a helmet from a 5 liter bottle:
If you want to make this helmet, then use all the recommendations that were written above and you will surely succeed. The main thing is not to be afraid to experiment.
In this outfit, you can completely go to a fancy dress ball or use a helmet for your child to school.
This article will introduce you to the creation process. theirhands Lightweight and durable armor made of material called Wonderflex.
Wonderflex is a very versatile material, but there are certain restrictions on its use.
In the above images, all parts of the armor, with the exception of the helmet, were made from a combination of Wonderflex and Apoxie.
Step 1: What is Wonderflex?
Wonderflex is a low-melting thermoplastic (“activation” temperature 150 ° -170 ° F), with a woven fibrous substrate on one side. When heated, the material can stretch, repeating the shape of the workpiece.
Wonderflex sheets can be joined together. The more you heat the material, the stronger the bond. I recommend using heat guns for heating, but you can also heat smaller pieces in the microwave.
Take "by condition" that most people have at home: markers, rulers, well-lit workplaces. I would like to offer a set of tools for working with Wonderflex:
- Heat gun
- Trauma scissors (they have a serrated edge that allows you to cut 3 layers of Wonderflex quite easily)
- Manual punch (Wonderflex is pretty bad to drill. For clean holes, a punch is best)
- Roller - for gluing sheets together,
- Blanks for molding armor elements,
- Grinding sponges - to smooth the texture of the material,
- Polyester filler and primer,
- Soldering iron
- Respirator, gloves and goggles,
For bulky parts, we will use a material called Apoxie Sculpt (clay), which hardens during the night, dries, almost without shrinkage and is easy to grind. When working with Apoxie, some clay tools may come in handy.
Step 3: Create the Armor Templates
Any project always begins with drawings. There are many ways to get them. First of all, if the image of the desired replica is in the video game, the experienced wizard will be able to extract the files in the form of a 3D model, which can be manipulated.
I had a mannequin that fit the size of my torso. After printing out the set of armor templates, connect the parts together with tape to visualize the shape of the armor. If the pieces do not match and additional adjustment is needed, make the necessary changes to the template, and then print a new piece.
Paper is a good counterpart to Wonderflex. Spend time fitting templates. If you can customize all the elements appropriately, you can save a lot of time and avoid big frustrations when trying to mold Wonderflex.
Step 4: Increase Sheet Thickness
After the templates are sorted, it's time to transfer them to Wonderflex.
The thickness of one layer is actually quite small and the material will not hold a given shape with any effect on it. In addition, when forming parts from only one layer, the material will wrinkle along those areas that are stretched. To solve this problem, we will combine several sheets together before forming parts of the suit from them.
For large areas such as chest and back, it was decided to use three layers. We heat them with a heat gun, and then roll them with a roller. In order to pre-fasten the sheets together and they did not move during rolling, you can use a pin or a similar object. However, I recommend that you first make sure that the heated Wonderflex does not stick to the surface of the roller. My roller has a silicone drum, so this was not a problem.
For other parts that are not so intensively subject to wear (shoulders and hips), we use 2 sheets to make a preliminary basis for the elements of the armor.
Step 5: Main Components
After the sheets are compacted, it's time to cut the blanks.
It is much easier to cut out a shape from a preformed piece. After all, if you cut a piece, and then stretch it in shape, then in the end the result will be “crooked”.
The first picture shows the “empty” panel. This part was made of 2 layers of Wonderflex. We will use an old plastic pipe (you can take any non-porous and heat-resistant material) to achieve the desired curvature. You can use large adapters from PVC pipes - strict lines and high heat resistance will make them an excellent tool for molding Wonderflex. In order to prevent adhesion, we cover part of the sheet with metallic tape.
To cool simple forms we use a bucket of cold water.
After heating the sheet, give it the desired shape, then immerse it in water. It takes about 5 minutes (in air) to cool completely, but using the “bucket” method, the process takes seconds.
After you have received the desired shape, take the pattern and circle it on the workpiece. We use small clamps to fix the template during drawing.
After transferring the contours of the template, just cut the desired shape. As I wrote earlier, Wonderflex used trauma scissors for cutting. Хотя канцелярский нож, также отлично работает.
Шаг 6: Греем, формируем, выгибаем, повторяем…
There are some parts of the armor that cannot be obtained in the manner described above.
Unlike the previous stage, you first need to transfer the drawing and only after that gradually form the costume element.
Starting from the lower leg, he formed the basic details using the mannequin's leg. While this allowed me to achieve fairly accurate basic shapes, small wrinkles and wavy edges remained. In this case, in order to smooth them, it is necessary to concentrate on one area, heat it, form bends, and then soak in a bucket of ice water.
In figure 2 you can see the method of forming sections of the back and chest. Since these parts are too large to fit in a bucket of ice water, it is worth starting the heating process by placing a wet towel on top of the sheet. After completion, the workpiece is covered with a second towel dipped in ice water.
We repeat this process several times until we reach the desired shape. It took several passes and stretch marks at the corners and edges to get to this “point”.
In the figure, you can see the front chest plate after molding. We make small cuts along the arms and neck in order to stretch the shape along the edges and increase the curvature. Then cover them with thin strips of Wonderflex to strengthen the seams. If the armor should be smooth in these areas, you can close these cuts on the back so that the finish looks smooth.
After the parts are formed, it is a good idea to try them on a mannequin to make sure that all the seams match.